Veganism Faces Challenges: Chef Neil Rankin’s Ancient Solution to Revitalize the Market

By Brad Young, Money Feature Writer

As the plant-based food industry grapples with a significant decline in consumer interest, a renowned chef with a unique perspective is stepping forward with an age-old solution. Neil Rankin, a Cordon Bleu-trained chef and the founder of the vegan food company Symplicity, has a message for a struggling market: the problem with plant-based food lies in its taste, and a 12,000-year-old cooking technique could be the answer.

A Rocky Start

Rankin’s journey into the world of plant-based cuisine was anything but smooth. In 2016, after opening his nose-to-tail barbecue restaurant, Temper, he became a target for online vitriol from vegan ‘fundamentalists,’ receiving death threats that forced him to delete his social media accounts. Despite this rocky start, today, he has sold over half a million steaks and is poised to transform perceptions in the plant-based sector.

Declining Interest in Plant-Based Products

Recent figures reveal a troubling trend for the vegan food sector. The Good Food Institute reported a 9.9% drop in unit sales of plant-based foods in the UK between 2022 and 2023, with consumers losing interest largely in chilled desserts, ready meals, and meat alternatives. Major supermarkets also adjusted their offerings, as indicated by a 10% reduction in the number of meat alternatives available at leading retailers such as Tesco, Asda, and Sainsbury’s.

Andrew Godley, a professor of entrepreneurship and innovation at the University of Sussex, noted that the industry has faced disappointment from investors and damaging publicity due to stagnant sales growth.

The Taste Factor: A Call for Culinary Excellence

Rankin attributes the decline in the plant-based market to a fundamental issue: taste. He claims that many products on the market are overly processed, crafted by manufacturers focused more on cost and profit margins than on quality. ‘None of it tastes very good,’ he remarked, emphasizing the need for culinary artistry in vegan products.

Indy Kaur, founder of the market research firm Plant Futures Collective, supports Rankin’s perspective, urging a recognition of the culinary expertise necessary to create appealing plant-based foods. Consumers trialing these alternatives often abandon them after disappointing taste experiences, leading to skepticism around the product category.

Consumer Understanding and New Technology

Despite the industry’s challenges, Godley suggests that the issue may not solely lie within the products themselves. Much of the consumer base lacks an understanding of the health benefits that plant-based foods can provide, leading to hesitancy and, ultimately, reduced sales. As plant-based products behave more like technological innovations than regular food items, a strong initial consumer response is required to reignite growth.

Kaur proposes that innovation and adaptability within the industry are crucial for success, highlighting the need for plant-based products that appeal not only to vegans but also to casual consumers or ‘open omnivores.’

Emphasizing Artisanal and Indulgent Offerings

The current landscape is shifting. Rankin’s approach is in line with this transition towards artisanal and high-quality offerings. He advocates for sourcing ingredients locally, maximizing the use of every vegetable part, and, importantly, utilizing fermentation techniques to enhance flavors. Drawing inspiration from ancient food processing methods, he combines beetroots, mushrooms, and onions, fermented in Japanese soy sauce over a period of 15 days to produce unique and flavorful vegan dishes.

The Path Forward: Winning Over a New Audience

In a bid to invigorate the struggling plant-based market, Kaur emphasizes the importance of appealing to ‘open omnivores’—meat-eaters receptive to new culinary innovations. Overcoming entrenched beliefs about food and nutrition is paramount to expanding the consumer base and driving growth in plant-based sales.

For Rankin, the key lies not in mimicking meat but in redefining plant-based offerings as desirable in their own right. As he collaborates with well-known restaurants and chefs, including endorsements from culinary figures like Tom Kerridge, he embodies a movement aiming to reshape the narrative around vegan food.

As the plant-based industry confronts a challenging landscape, Rankin’s innovative approach combined with an emphasis on authentic, chef-driven culinary design offers a glimpse of hope for consumers and businesses alike. The journey to revitalizing vegan cuisine may very well hinge on returning to the fundamentals of cooking and creative ingredient sourcing, paving the way for a new wave of compelling plant-based options.

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